I've encountered an issue which is beyond my (admittedly fairly limited) understanding and would be grateful for any advice.

The model I'm working on instructions fine up 'til (and including) the first sub model. In the step following, when the sub model is introduced to the main model, the bottom of the assembly is cut off in that and every following step, as if some constraint has been applied.

   

   

I've done plenty of instructions with sub models and this has never happened before. Is there a way of changing the size of the box highlighted in the second picture? I've played with page sizes and margins, the only thing that worked is scaling down the assembly to fit in that box, but that quickly leaves everything impossibly small!

Any ideas?

I noticed something's up with 6135.dat—it should fit all the way onto a Technic axle pin (see for example set 8880), but the axle hole isn't deep enough—only 16 LDU, but should be a full stud.

   

Unfortunately I don't have this part in real life, so I'm not sure how it would have to be adjusted, but it's clearly not as simple as just extending the axle hole.

Will there be a new version of LDraw, concerning in running in Windows 10, 64 bit mode?  If so, when will that be, just asking though? I'm using Windows 10, 64 bit mode.

40433 - 1989 Batmobile - Limited Edition
   
OMR Compliant
Missing: Stickers
Notes: This set was gift with purchase of 76139

Attached Files

  40433 - 1989 Batmobile - Limited Edition.mpd (Size: 50.18 KB / Downloads: 23)

I have LPub3D version 2.3.13 installed on my MAC and keep getting the following errors on startup saying LPub can not find certain files, and LDview fails to render images once loaded. How can I replace these missing files? Any help would be appreciated

Cale

       

I was going to do the new Batmobile for the OMR but these 2 parts are (currently) unique to that set:

56074pb01, Windscreen 12 x 12 x 2 with Black Outline Pattern
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/cat...only%22:0}
Also this windscreen has never been produced unpatterned. This is a new mold for this set.

52985, Tire 68.7 x 27 S
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/cat...D#T=C&C=11

This request is merely for documentation purposes. Since these parts are part of a high dollar set and the individual piece prices are still quite high, I don't want anyone to break the bank trying to author them. I'll backburner this project until these molds are a bit more common.

4993 - Cool Convertible

   

  4993 - Cool Convertible.mpd (Size: 34.92 KB / Downloads: 13)

Files is OMR compliant

Hi,

I noticed what seems to be a discrepancy in the small control stick base (4592.dat): the notch is not deep enough to allow the stick to rotate a full 180 degrees, although the real part does permit this behavior. However, this may be partially due to the snap meta being set too deep—in the real part, the rotational disc of the stick sits flush with the top of the base, rather than being concentric with its hemispherical portion. (Still, this adjustment allows the stick only about 174° of rotation, rather than the full 180° sweep—or even slightly more—available in the real part.)

(using LDraw parts for training!)
https://www.brothers-brick.com/2019/12/0...uJyz0E8XNE

This one's really just for fun; I was able to figure it out by eye to within half a degree, and I think it's good enough. But I'm still curious how you'd go about finding the "right" answer…

   

So our task here is simply to have our spaceman get a grip on his control stick (you can see he's already grabbed it in the right hand, so we just have to figure out the left). To do this, we need to figure out the angle of four different rotations. The control stick has to be tilted upward (1) and, along with its base, rotated inward (2), while the spaceman's arm has to pivot at the shoulder (3) to meet it. Finally, the hand has to rotate at the wrist (4) so that it's aligned with the control stick. (This last one is tricky because the hand portion—the actual "clip", or claw—is not aligned with any axis of the part itself, and the part's origin isn't located within the hand but rather at the wrist.)

Because we are perfectionists, the ball of the control stick should be centered longitudinally within the minifig's hand, but flush with its top edge. Since it's an 8-LDU sphere, the center of the sphere should be 4 LDU below the top edge (and again, that's relative to the hand itself, not the part overall).

I was able to get close on the first 3 steps (see below) by using successive approximation along with my intersecting circles method, then made some final small tweaks to account for the wrist rotation—again, good enough, but necessarily imprecise by nature. Guess I'll have to break out the trigonometry again to find the truth!