Based on feedback, I'd like to proposed a few minor changes to the Official Library Spec:

Clarification to Sticker Geometry:
- For stickers printed on a transparent medium, the type 1,3, or 4 lines that comprise the pattern shall be preceded by a 0 BFC NOCLIP statement and ended by a 0 BFC CLIP statement
- The pattern should be oriented such that the top of the pattern aligns with the +Z axis. Exceptions to this rule may be made on a case by case based.

Claification to Sticker Shortcuts:
- Require a !KEYWORDS entry with text similar to Pattern !KEYWORDS Entry:
A sticker shortcut should, at a minimum include at least one !KEYWORDS entry in the form of Set <set number> where <set number> is the number of an official LEGO set in which that pattern appears. Only one set need be listed but more can be if desired.[/b]

Now I'm looking for

Utensil Coins on Sprue (10, 20, 30, 40) Type 1 - 70501c01


Tomasz

Hello everyone! I'd like to request 44036 "Bionicle Toa Nuva Climbing Claw / Kodan Ball Half", 44807 "Bionicle Head, Rahkshi" and 47332 "Bionicle Head Connector Block (Vahki)".

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/cat...only%22:0}
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/cat...only%22:0}
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/cat...only%22:0}

G'day!

As you can probably tell, I'm from Australia and wanted to say hello after joining up.

I'm hoping to submit some missing parts to the catalogue... every now and again I come across parts that have no models and end up creating them for my own use, but thought the whole community could benefit from that. I use stud.io and the associated Part Designer for my digital designs (and I have a swag of my own custom parts designed using OpenSCAD) - so if there's any gotchas about exported LDR files from there please let me know or point me towards docs (I have a suspicion there's at least one, to do with colours). Thanks.

Please note that I have lots of time but not much energy and may not respond to requests anywhere near quickly. I'm currently battling leukaemia and some portions of my chemo leave me incapacitated while other times I'm reasonably OK. I have another 18 months of that to go...

Best regards,
-J

Does anybody own this part?

I have not seen any bottom pictures so far.

I based the bottom on the fence 3 x 3, but that gives me some interference with the hle to fix the pane

Thanks

嗨，我以为开始使用此LDcad，所以遇到了一些问题。
当我打开脚本菜单时，我无法建立代码，该消息告诉我不接受脚本，我不知道为什么，也无法在Google中搜索此问题。
我希望有人能给我一些帮助！
我的计算机系统团队是Microsoft Windows 10.0

Automatic Binding Bricks
Sets 700/1, 700/2, 700/3 (1949) — the very first!

These models are arguably the first "official models" ever. While instructions weren't yet included in the original LEGO sets, these three houses appear in the catalog of 1950 as examples of what could be built with each of the three basic sets.

However…as far as I can tell, they actually couldn't be built from those sets, at least not according to the listed contents. Maybe some of them could, but at least with 700/1, the model uses more 2x4 bricks (115) than are included in the set (84), and there aren't enough 2x2's left over to substitute for them. And that's not even accounting for the available color selection and slot configurations…

This, of course, assumes that these are meant to be full, 4-sided models—and they really must be, or the roofs wouldn't stand. (I'm not even sure they would in the first place!) So I've guessed at what the two hidden sides might be, as well as the color scheme. These were two-tone colorized B&W photos anyway, and the color selection was not fixed in those days—you were limited to whatever colors you got in the box! So that's also conjectural.

But in any event, it's an interesting glimpse into what the building process would have been with these very oldest bricks, available in only two sizes and two slot configurations—and with no real clutch power at all, despite the name!

Hi,


I'm using the 3-16ndis.dat primitive in the part I'm working on (35103).


In fact I had to slice a 2-4ndis, so I replaced it by two 3-16ndis and the two quads I get using SlicerPro.


The matter is that, there's a realy small gap between the 3-16ndis primitive and each quad. But this gap disappears when I inline the primitive with LDDP, so I deduced it's a matter of precision using SlicerPro. The problem is that even with a better precision the gap is still here.
I've the same problem with 3-8cyli.dat for the vertical part.


So my question is : should I keep the primitive and the gap, or should I inline the primitive to close the gap ?


Or maybe there's  a third way I didn't thought about...

Hi all,
There we go, my first thread here. It's about LPub3D. Despite my well defined love-hate relation with LPub3D, I still can't figure out how to get a decent BOM of the instructions. Sure, one page works fine, but multiple pages end up to ... nothing actually.
With a big model you have to zoom out to get to the bottom-middle of the BOM to change it's shape. But since the page itself stays in the middle, AND CANNOT SCROLL the page/viewport, you end up with a tine black square that is so small that you can't select it anymore. A solution is to change the shape of the BOM, from 'area' to colums for instance.
But then you end up with a very long list you still cannot resize.
So you split the BOM. Splitting the BOM doesn't take landscape orientation into account and besides this, you work with columns. So the list is split as if the page was portrait.
And so on and on and on and....

How do you make a BOM that:
- can span multiple pages
- splits at reasonable points
- does not jump to an different/arbitrary) location if you resize, move, split or change its shape

Has anybody success of making a BOM in LPub3D that didn't take hours and hours and didn't had to, after using one A0 page, use Photoshop to make things easier?

I realise and concur that the author of LPub3D did a great job. But that doesn't take away the fact that I'm starting to hate building MOCs I cannot publish.
My advice to LPub3D is therefore, stop making exotic features work; work on functionality and reliability. LPub3D crashes way to often, and I hate, as a law abiding citizen, looking at a blue turning cursor idicating that the program is busy. Well, it's not.

Note. As you can see, I'm having trouble not to reflect my frustration. Yes I'm thankful for/yo people like Sandy. But LPub3d is not only consuming way to much time, it spoils the fun of being an AFOL too much. We're here to share our love for and involvement with other LEGO fans, not to bug-fix some appliaction.

Ciao, and thanks in advance,
Eef

Is there some sort of "flood fill" utility to triangle-ize the blank space in a pattern (up to a defined bounding rectangle). Filling in the negative space with color 16 triangles is super time consuming. 

Maybe this exists and just to dense to find it.