The main problem when scanning LEGO parts is their reflecting faces. 
You have to cover the part with a matte material (talcum powder, tempera) and then you could lose the pattern. I have tried this technique shooting the photos with an old bridge camera in order to get all the images with the same exposition. It also helps to put the part on a matte surface with a lot of textures (advertising sheets from supermarket are the best). Or in a lightbox to get a white background, so the textures only come from the part.
Green figure (not LEGO) with a layer of magenta tempera in a lightbox:
![[Image: alien-Scan1.jpg]](https://i.postimg.cc/FKmRzx8c/alien-Scan1.jpg)
The resulting 3D object from 50 images using the free version of 3DF Zephyr before fixing the geometry:
![[Image: alien-Scan2.jpg]](https://i.postimg.cc/mg7kTnXB/alien-Scan2.jpg)
You have to cover the part with a matte material (talcum powder, tempera) and then you could lose the pattern. I have tried this technique shooting the photos with an old bridge camera in order to get all the images with the same exposition. It also helps to put the part on a matte surface with a lot of textures (advertising sheets from supermarket are the best). Or in a lightbox to get a white background, so the textures only come from the part.Green figure (not LEGO) with a layer of magenta tempera in a lightbox:
The resulting 3D object from 50 images using the free version of 3DF Zephyr before fixing the geometry: